1988 323 GTX Mazda 323 GTX - For Sale and Wanted to Buy 
This information is provided as a service to 323 GTX enthusiasts worldwide. If you have questions about a particular item, please contact that person directly. Here's how to be listed, and be sure to visit the Mazda 323 GTX picture gallery, or maybe you want to jump directly to Wanted. 
News Flashes
Latest update: April 6, 2014
More than one hundred fifty seven sales of Mazda GTX! Cars have been sold at least 157 times through this page. That's a lot, considering that only about a thousand of the cars were sold new in North America.
Warning: if you are selling a car watch out for the cashiers check scams that are going around.

For Sale

Wanted to Buy

Wanted 323 GTX (Milwaukee, WI)
I am in Milwaukee, WI and I am looking for a 323 gtx in any condition within 1000 miles from me.
Contact: , Ethan, phone 414-690-4716
(Listed April 6, 2014)

Wanted 323 GTX (Minneapolis, MN)
I'm looking for a LHD 323 GTX with a fairly decent body. I'm located in Minneapolis, MN. I'd prefer the car be drivable, if not -- at least an okay transmission. I'm ready to purchase immediately, with cash in hand.
Contact: , Carl Rathman, phone 612.424.2882
(Listed February 6, 2011)

Wanted 323 GTX project (Seattle, Washington)
I am looking for 323 gtx project car near Seattle, WA. Car must run, everyting else doesn't matter. Will pay cash.
(Listed December 5, 2009)

Wanted 323 GTX project (Indiana)
I'm looking for a GTX project. I'm in Indiana and I'm not in a big hurry, but I would like to start looking. I've wanted to get into Rally racing for many years since I started autocrossing over 15 years ago.
Contact: Randy Domeck or call 317-258-0039
(Listed November 7, 2009)

Wanted 323 GTX (British Columbia)
I'm looking for a 323GTX. I live in BC and would like to find one relatively rust free for trade for a 93 Toyota SR5 Pickup, or looking to spend about $2000
Contact: Pete Rensen or call 250-512-8055
(Listed October 31, 2009)
eBay Auctions
Tech Tips and Questions
Q. High idle when warm
My GTX recently started idling at nearly 2000rpm when warm. I've got a factory maintenance manual and it seems to point to a faulty BAC valve but the price on one of those is over $500. I'm also getting a "Check Engine" light. Good news is that the engine is still there! Bad news is that I don't have one of those little thingy's to check the code in the computer - know how to do it the "other" way?
From: John A. Virnig, email <javirnig@aol.com>

A. Problem Solved!
I found the problem a short time after a person on your web page emailed me. Turns out the A/C button was depressed and while the A/C isn't working (insufficient Freon), the computer still bumps the idle.

Q. How to read diagnostic codes?

A. Here's how you get the codes from the computer without the Mazda diagnostic tool
When you open your hood there is a pair of green connectors driver's side right back by the hood hinge. One is a six or eight pin connector, the other is a single pin. The eight pin works with the Mazda System 27 checker. That gives the codes directly to the checker, but you need the tool. The other single wire connector is the one that you want. It should be a female spade connector. All you do is shut the car off, open your hood, ground that connector (I have a male jumper for the connector and an alligator clip on the other end that I grab one of the strut mounting studs for grounding), hop back in the car and turn the ignition switch to on. In addition to seeing your oil light and your alternator light, you should see a check engine light on the top row. The light comes on steady for two or three seconds when you first turn the ignition switch on, but then will blink out the code that the computer has stored. Long blinks mean 10's and short blinks mean ones. Multiple codes are separated by a pause. The meaning of each of the codes is in the factory workshop manual, although you have to look a bit.

Q. Engine Trouble
I have a real stumper here and I'm hoping you can help me out! I own an '88 Mazda 323 GT which has one of those fancy 16 valve DOHC TURBO charged engines. It currently has 99,450 miles on it.
Last Sunday I washed the engine with a power washer. It hasn't been the same since. When I drove away I could hear sparking and could tell it was missing because of the water. I let it sit until the next day, when I noticed it was loosing power up around 4000 RPM. In fact it was taking so long to accelerate from 4000-5000 RPM that the Turbo Over boost warning came on! I continued to drive the car for a few days and the problem got worse and worse. It was so bad Wednesday night that I had to slip the clutch significantly just to get the car rolling. If I kept the engine below 3000 RPM it would decelerate even with it floored.
On Thursday I took it to my local shop. The found a crack in the distributor cap so we replaced it. Unfortunately that didn't do anything. After they checked all the obvious things I decided to try to get to work! I barely got on to the highway, but managed some how. When I got off the highway (30 miles later) the car was FINE, it had fixed it's self!! I was excited! Only to my dismay did I find the problem back Thursday evening when I got in to go home. The same thing happened on the ride home. After about 15 min on the highway it fixed it self and I had full power.
I took it to shop number 2 on Friday and left it there all day. He couldn't find anything wrong. He checked spark, timing, fuel pressure, air filter/intake, the exhaust system for a blockage and anything else he could think of. After a day of looking he called me and said I give up.
Monday I took it to the dealer and they did a wet compression check and said that the cylinders are supposed to have 154 but only have 100,90,80,104. They want me to authorize them to tear down the engine for $500.00 just to give me a diagnosis and estimate. What should I do? How could it be an intermittent problem and have low compression? Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thank you for your time. Jeff Banet

A. Problem Solved!
Date Wed, 15 Oct 1997 22:16:28 -0400
From: Jeff Banet
Thanks for the posting, it turned out to be the crank that was broken!! Read below, Brian knew right what it was! As it turned out, the dealer figured it out the same day Brian e-mailed me...

Date: Wed, 08 Oct 1997 23:49:12 -0400
From: Brian <Project323@Rocketmail.com>
Subject: your 323 gtx problem
Jeff, First of all check the bottom pulley attatched to your crankshaft. Does it appear to wobble from side-to-side? It sounds like you have a broken keyway on your crankshaft. This accounts for the low compression readings and dismal performance. It is likely a coincidence that you pressure washed the car when you did. If you need help with a replacement crank or bottom end please write or call me. Project 323 is the world wide owners group for Mazda 323 enthusiasts. I have several used and 1 new bottom end around as well as ECUs, turbos (new & used) and always have a huge supply of parts on hand

Q. Normal Exhaust Temp?
What should the normal exhaust gas temperature range be on the 1988 B6 DOHC engine as measured at the exhaust manifold?
Thanks, Eric Rehwald, Jasper, AB, Canada

A. Around 1300 F
I have a 323 Gtx and I saw your question about the exhaust gas temp. on the turbo engine. I took out my catalytic convertor but I was seeing 1350 F on the interstate. Now I rarely get over 1300 but road race told me that these are normal temp's. If you get up around 1600 something is wrong. I try and let my car cool 1min~800 F, 2min~1000 F, 4in~>1200 F. Hope this helps some. Mike at Road Race is the expert.
From: Clay McLendon

Q. Stumble off idle
I have a question for visitors to this site. My GTX has a bad stumble just off of idle. It is most noticeable when trying to hold a steady speed, like on the highway. It only does it when it is warm. First thought was throttle position sensor, but no trouble codes are indicated by the computer, and everything checks out in terms of resistances. If I take the computer out of closed loop by disconnecting the Oxygen sensor the problem goes away. The sensor is a Bosch unit, and is sending a signal. Has anyone else had a similar problem?

A. Problem Solved!
The problem was traced to a bad ground.

Books from amazon.com
Here are some books that may interest you, that can be ordered online.
Mazda Motorsports
A great little book, with plenty of photos, that covers the spectrum of Mazda racing in the USA from about 1970 through 1991. Several cool pictures of full-race 323 GTX in action.
More Information Here
Chilton Repair Manual
A basic manual that covers the full variety of maintenance and repair procedures.
More Information Here
Businesses that sell 323 GTX performance parts
I can't vouch for each of these folks, but here are some contacts if you are looking for parts to soup up your 323 GTX. Please let me know of others.
Advanced Jap Auto Imports
Mobile 0421 025 216
Phone 9311-9966
Website: http://www.advancedjapautoimports.com.au
(Listing added: September 28, 2005)
Reich Racing Ltd
Reich Racing Limited
261-525 Highland Road West
Kitchener, Ontario
Canada N2M 5P4
E-mail: Project323@ReichRacing.on.ca
Web site: www.ReichRacing.com
We have developed ECU upgrades and other performance parts for Mazda's 323 turbos, MX-6 GT, and the B6T powered Mercury Capri XR2.
(Listing updated: January 3, 2005)
DJT Motorsports
My name is Darin Stocker, I run a small race shop called DJT Motorsports in Detroit.
I have 2 GTX's and have worked on many, both street and race. Currently I am building
a stroked 1.6 for a customer and am also rebuilding a transmission for another.
DJT Motorsports - Detroit
(Customer wrote to say they were happy with tranny, clutch, flywheel, axles, and computer work. - Reed S., Jan. 2003)
Pete Waltz
Pete is selling new old stock Koni struts and other GTX items
(Listed November 5, 2003)
Road / Race Engineering
13022 La Dana Ct.
Santa Fe Springs, Ca. 90670
(562) 777-1522 phone
e-mail sales@roadraceengineering.com
web site www.roadraceengineering.com
Cork Sport
6705 NE 79th Ct, Suite 1
Portland, OR 97218
(503) 252-5700
Web site www.corksport.com
410 S. Motor Ave. #C
Azusa, CA 91702
(626) 812-4358 phone
e-mail ELProto@aol.com
We have been doing 323 GTX and Familia ECU upgrades for about 5 years now and we have assisted in many transplants of these motors into FWD only cars. Eric Lapka, owner.
Rod Millen Motorsport
13401 S. Main Street
Los Angeles Ca. 90061
(310) 491-3300
Propulsion Motorworks
Midori Machi 2-13-18
Gushikawa City
Okinawa Japan
Tel/Fax (98)973-9322
e-mail promotor@ii-okinawa.ne.jp
Adelaide Jap Dismantlers
Australian used parts supplier. Sometimes has GTX and GTR engines.
19 Jacobsen Crescent, Holden Hill SA 5088 AUSTRALIA
phone 61+ (8) 8369 1156
Tri Point Engineering (Canoga Park, CA)
Specialize in Mazda and BMW but have done mods on GTXs.
Tri Point Engineering
21417 Ingomar St # 7
Canoga Park, CA 91304
(818) 348-5385
Wholesale Hyperformance (Diamond Bar, CA)
We sell most major aftermarket performance brands for imports such as: HKS, Blitz, Greddy, Gab, Koni, Tokico, Eibach, Intrax, Bilstein, KYB, Magnacore, Nology, NGK, MSD, K&N, Mazdaspeed (auth. Dealer), PIAA, Sparco, Momo, Razo, Volk, Racing Hart, SSR, RSR, Catz, OMORI, Autometer, APEXi, etc.
Wholesale Hyperformance
1174 Diamond Bar Blvd. Ste #231
Diamond Bar, CA. 91765
Phone: 626-337-7855
Fax: 626-851-1998
e-mail: wholehyper@earthlink.net
Want to be listed on this page?
If you would like to add a listing to this page, email the details to me, Reed Sturtevant, at . Send me a picture if you like. There is no charge for these listings. Cars have been sold at least 157 times through this page! Some success stories:
Visit Reed's Home Page , Reed's Cars Page, and the 323 GTX Picture Gallery.
Other projects: helpopolis