Mazda 323 GTX - For Sale and Wanted to Buy
This information is provided as a service to 323 GTX enthusiasts worldwide. If you have
questions about a particular item, please contact that person directly. Here's how to be listed,
and be sure to visit the Mazda 323 GTX picture gallery, or maybe you want to jump
directly to Wanted.
|Latest update: September 18, 2012|
|More than one hundred fifty seven sales of Mazda GTX! Cars have been sold at least 157 times through this page. That's a lot, considering
that only about a thousand of the cars were sold new in North America.|
|Warning: if you are selling a car watch out for the cashiers
check scams that are going around.
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- Sept. 21, 22 Auction of dozens of GTX, GTR, etc. (Rollinsford, New Hampshire)
Well known collector Dr. Terry Bennett is auctioning a dozen or so GTX Mazdas, a coupla GTRs a trio of Skylines etc.
It is gonna be run on Sept 21, 22, by AuctionsAMerica.com at his home in Rollinsford NH 03869.
No reserve prices on anything, and a lot of bargains are likely There are also a lot of GTX parts
the Terry Bennett collection and see what is going to be sold. Here is a link to the search for Mazda cars and parts.
Contact: Auctions America
(Listed September 18, 2012)
- 1988 Mazda 323 GTX (Portland, Oregon)
1988 Mazda 323 GTX AWD Turbo. Oregon - Washington car,
NO RUST. 188k Orig Miles, (All original not modified, only mod is boost
gauge controller electronic and K&N filter)
- Sun roof
- 5 speed (rebuilt not probs whatsoever, have receipt $1,200)
- Factory Cruise (only GTX I have ever seen with this)
- A/C works great
- Original wheels and Snow studs on steelies
So many items I can’t list them all. I have $8,500 in receipts not including the price of the car when I purchased it.
You can have all my records on the car.
- Just did Water Pump, Cam Crank Seals, Tensioner and all idlers at 185k
- Replaced at 158k miles: JDM B6T (30k miles 145 stock BHP)
- Transmission full rebuild (reputable Shop with receipt $1,200)
- All Wheel Bearings
- Tie Rod Ends
- Pedders rear struts (Corksport)
- KYB Front Struts
- ST Springs (Last set from Corksport)
- Urethane Sway bar bushings (Corksport)
- Piaa Rally lights and circuit
This is not a show car. Shows its age in the Paint, Trim, seats, Carpet and other area’s you’d expect. (Most of this has happened in the last 2 years it has been my daily driver)
Driver window slow to go up.
Neighbor backed into the front drivers fender (medium dent, no structural damage just fender).
Needs Valve cover gasket kit, seeping.
May need Right rear wheel bearing, I’ve done these several times in the last 30k miles, don’t know why I keep losing them?
Adult owned and not over driven.
It breaks my heart to part with this car, it was my Sunday car for 4 years then it has been my daily driver for last 2.
It is the type of car that needs maintenance and it is no longer practical to keep driving it every day.
Sorry I have to say this but prior experience dictates *NO TEST DRIVES UNLESS YOU HAVE THE CASH* - No Exceptions.
(Price reduced March 12, 2011)
- 1988 Mazda 323 GTX (near Poughkeepsie, NY)
I have a red [turned the usual GTX orangey-red] 1988 GTX for sale. Other than the
below it is stock. I think it has about 188,000 miles on it. The digital gauge unit it
originally had was replaced with an analog unit showing 111,000 miles. The brakes
have been gone through and are in excellent condition. High-temp silicone-based brake
fluid was used. Seats are in very good condition with no tears, but the driver's seat
has a small cigarette burn hole in it. Transmission shifts smoothly and easily with no
grinding. Diff. lock works instantly. Recent alignment. New: Interstate battery and
Rain-X windshield wipers.
The original [high-mileage] engine was replaced with a Capri engine (turbo) in excellent
condition. The mileage is unknown, but the previous owner removed the head and said
it was in remarkable condition, so his guess was less than 50,000 miles. The engine
was putting out well over 200hp in its previous body. Before installation, the following
were replaced with New: front and rear seals, timing belt, aftermarket water pump,
exhaust manifold (no cracks!), plugs, wires, cap, rotor, 180 thermostat/gasket, Bosch
O2 sensor. EL Prototypes chip in ECU good for 16 psi. ItŐs had synthetic Royal Purple
10W30 in it for the last several years. Transmission, transfer carrier, and rear diff. also
have synthetic oil in them.
VJ14/VJ11 hybrid turbo in excellent condition. The turbo has about 40,000 miles on its
rebuild/hybridization. It has a VJ14 hot side and the VJ-11 cold side, a ported wastegate,
and some other "mystical" porting work. The turbo was given to Darin Stocker who farmed
it out to his rebuilder, www.forcedperformance.net. Cost was $650. There is also no
boost cut and no boost controller on the car (I can supply a manual boost controller but
the engine deserves better) so you get about 11psi of boost as is. This turbo is capable
of holding 20psi of boost to 7200 RPM.
Struts: Aftermarket lowering springs front and rear. The brand is unknown (not Suspension Techniques) as they came with the car. They lower the car only slightly. The struts are Tokicos but not GR-2's. Since they have a Mazda part# stamped on them, I'm assuming they're OEM. It has a nice, but a bit soft, ride, which should work best as a street car.
It does have some rust in the rockers but, relatively speaking, it's not too bad. All of it is fixable if done soon. I've taken a number of pics of that area so you can see all of it. The sunroof has no rust.
- New Goodyear Eagle tires, 195/60x14, on good OEM wheels>
- New ADDCO sway bars front & rear
- New ACT 6-puck clutch, very streetable
- Aftermarket headlights with a custom wiring harness, JDM clear corners
- Kenwood CD player & manual
- No A/C
- The exhaust system consists of: stock downpipe, 2" exhaust pipe, and a turbo-style muffler. No cat.
The hood has a small dent on the leading edge. The area under the right rear taillight has a small dent. The previous owner started
pulling this dent out, put a layer of Bondo on it to cover the holes, and painted it, but it still needs a bit more work to be right.
It's hardly noticeable as it's under the taillight but if you're going to the trouble of getting the rust fixed, it's a small additional job.
Electric windows and locks with both window regulators being just rebuilt.
It should have no issues being driven anywhere. The previous owner used the car as
a daily driver for 2,000 miles before swapping the engine to the turbo Capri engine,
then another 1,500 miles to work out the bugs. Including driving from Michigan to NY
to deliver the car to me. I have driven the car locally for about 500 miles, fixing several
bugs that were still in the car.
The only problem that the car still has that I'm aware of is the horn not working (I believe
it has a ground problem somewhere) and low heater output (probably needs the cooling
Also 2 spare wheels with well-worn Dunlops.
Car is located in Saugerties, NY; price USD$2500
Contact: Jim Chittenden, Phone 845-246-4060
(Updated February 20, 2011)
- 1988 Mazda 323 GTX (Albany, CA)
133k miles, asking USD$4000. I'm sad to be posting this car for sale, but a growing family has forced me to get something with 4-doors. So, here it is:
1988 Mazda 323 GTX. Full-time 4WD with 1.6L Dual Overhead Cam Turbocharged engine.
If you know what this car is, you can skip to the details below. If not, here's the basics followed by a quick blurb from an article on these rare (only 1200 ever imported to the US) little rockets:
2-door hatchback,Black, Mileage: 133k miles (less than 6000 miles/year!),
MPG: 23-28, Full-time 4WD with remote lockable differential
Power windows, power locks, crank sunroof, Aiwa w/iPod port, Infinity speakers (original stereo available, if wanted)
Wheels: original cast aluminum wheels (by Enkei) w/ original center caps. Original seats (by Recaro) Heat and AC work.
The Mazda 323 GTX is one of the great all-time unknown performance heroes--a pocket rally racer and the turbocharged, all-wheel-drive progenitor to the Subaru WRX and Mitsubishi Evo. In base form, the 323 was a nice enough but unassuming also-ran to the Honda Civics and Toyota Corollas that dominated the economy category--pleasant, but not exactly an obvious candidate for hero car status. However, in the late 1980s Mazda began a short-lived experiment with turbocharging its family sedans. The result was lightning in a bottle--the 323 GT sedan and the 323 GTX hatchback. The GT was a nice little runner in its own right, but the GTX has assumed cult favorite status thanks to the combination of its hatchback utility, turbocharged horsepower, and full-time all-wheel drive system--an exotic combination well ahead of its time.”
Here's a link to the full article: http://www.carlustblog.com/2007/08/mazda-323-gtx.html
Basically, it's a limited-production, de-tuned rally car for the consumer market.
Here's another recent article:
This car has very few modifications and has never been raced or off-roaded. It was my daily driver for the past 6 years, and my philosophy was to make improvements only when work needed to be done on it. Here are the details:
For a 22 year old car it is in excellent condition with only some small paint chips and scratches, some small tears on the side seams of
the front seats, and some small areas of light rust. Other than that, the car runs great. Everything works like it's supposed to. It starts
up immediately. It's an amazingly fun to drive point and shoot road rocket (imagine a Mini Cooper mixed with a WRX). It's smogged and
registered. It's good to go, whether you want a daily driver, a rally car, a track car, or just something to get you around town with
- Custom aluminum radiator
- Ceramic coated (Jet-hot) exhaust manifold
- Cat-back Magnaflow 2.5” exhaust
- Koni adjustable struts (rear); Tokico "Blues" shocks (front) @ 125k mi
- Stage 2 clutch, slave, resurfaced flywheel @ 118k mi
- All new vacuum hoses
- New distributor, distributor cap, and rotor
- New NGK plug wires
- K&N air filter
- New Bosch fuel injectors
- Upgraded Bosch Blow-off valve
- Recent brakes (oem)
- New Yokohama Avid H4S @ 122k mi. (60k mi warranty)
- Replaced timing belt, water pump, seals, etc @94k mi.
- Other misc. sensors, switches, gaskets, hoses, and routine maintenance as needed. (Details can be provided.)
Call or email for details. ***Please, serious inquiries only*** The car is viewable in Albany - just north of Berkeley and right off of I-80.
Asking USD $4000 obo
Contact: , phone Aaron 510-206-8534
(Listed February 6, 2011)
- Wanted 323 GTX (Minneapolis, MN)
I'm looking for a LHD 323 GTX with a fairly decent body. I'm located
in Minneapolis, MN. I'd prefer the car be drivable, if not -- at least
an okay transmission. I'm ready to purchase immediately, with cash in hand.
Contact: , Carl Rathman, phone 612.424.2882
(Listed February 6, 2011)
- Wanted 323 GTX project (Seattle, Washington)
I am looking for 323 gtx project car near Seattle, WA.
Car must run, everyting else doesn't matter. Will pay cash.
(Listed December 5, 2009)
- Wanted 323 GTX project (Indiana)
I'm looking for a GTX project. I'm in Indiana and I'm not in a big hurry, but I would like to start looking.
I've wanted to get into Rally racing for many years since I started autocrossing over 15 years ago.
Contact: Randy Domeck or call 317-258-0039
(Listed November 7, 2009)
- Wanted 323 GTX (British Columbia)
I'm looking for a 323GTX. I live in BC and would like to find one relatively rust free for trade for a 93 Toyota SR5 Pickup, or looking to spend about $2000
Contact: Pete Rensen or call 250-512-8055
(Listed October 31, 2009)
- Q. High idle when warm
My GTX recently started idling at nearly 2000rpm when warm. I've got a
factory maintenance manual and it seems to point to a faulty BAC valve
but the price on one of those is over $500. I'm also getting a "Check Engine"
light. Good news is that the engine is still there! Bad news is that I
don't have one of those little thingy's to check the code in the computer
- know how to do it the "other" way?
From: John A. Virnig, email <firstname.lastname@example.org>
A. Problem Solved!
I found the problem a short time after a person on your web page emailed
me. Turns out the A/C button was depressed and while the A/C isn't working
(insufficient Freon), the computer still bumps the idle.
- Q. How to read diagnostic codes?
A. Here's how you get the codes from the computer without the Mazda diagnostic tool
When you open your hood there is a pair of green connectors driver's side
right back by the hood hinge. One is a six or eight pin connector, the
other is a single pin. The eight pin works with the Mazda System 27 checker.
That gives the codes directly to the checker, but you need the tool. The
other single wire connector is the one that you want. It should be a female
spade connector. All you do is shut the car off, open your hood, ground
that connector (I have a male jumper for the connector and an alligator
clip on the other end that I grab one of the strut mounting studs for grounding),
hop back in the car and turn the ignition switch to on. In addition to
seeing your oil light and your alternator light, you should see a check
engine light on the top row. The light comes on steady for two or three
seconds when you first turn the ignition switch on, but then will blink
out the code that the computer has stored. Long blinks mean 10's and short
blinks mean ones. Multiple codes are separated by a pause. The meaning
of each of the codes is in the factory workshop manual, although you have
to look a bit.
- Q. Engine Trouble
I have a real stumper here and I'm hoping you can help me out! I own an
'88 Mazda 323 GT which has one of those fancy 16 valve DOHC TURBO charged
engines. It currently has 99,450 miles on it.
Last Sunday I washed the engine with a power washer. It hasn't been the
same since. When I drove away I could hear sparking and could tell it was
missing because of the water. I let it sit until the next day, when I noticed
it was loosing power up around 4000 RPM. In fact it was taking so long
to accelerate from 4000-5000 RPM that the Turbo Over boost warning came
on! I continued to drive the car for a few days and the problem got worse
and worse. It was so bad Wednesday night that I had to slip the clutch
significantly just to get the car rolling. If I kept the engine below 3000
RPM it would decelerate even with it floored.
On Thursday I took it to my local shop. The found a crack in the distributor
cap so we replaced it. Unfortunately that didn't do anything. After they
checked all the obvious things I decided to try to get to work! I barely
got on to the highway, but managed some how. When I got off the highway
(30 miles later) the car was FINE, it had fixed it's self!! I was excited!
Only to my dismay did I find the problem back Thursday evening when I got
in to go home. The same thing happened on the ride home. After about 15
min on the highway it fixed it self and I had full power.
I took it to shop number 2 on Friday and left it there all day. He couldn't
find anything wrong. He checked spark, timing, fuel pressure, air filter/intake,
the exhaust system for a blockage and anything else he could think of.
After a day of looking he called me and said I give up.
Monday I took it to the dealer and they did a wet compression check and
said that the cylinders are supposed to have 154 but only have 100,90,80,104.
They want me to authorize them to tear down the engine for $500.00 just
to give me a diagnosis and estimate. What should I do? How could it be
an intermittent problem and have low compression? Any advice would be much
Thank you for your time. Jeff Banet
A. Problem Solved!
Date Wed, 15 Oct 1997 22:16:28 -0400
From: Jeff Banet
Thanks for the posting, it turned out to be the crank that was broken!!
Read below, Brian knew right what it was! As it turned out, the dealer
figured it out the same day Brian e-mailed me...
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 1997 23:49:12 -0400
From: Brian <Project323@Rocketmail.com>
Subject: your 323 gtx problem
Jeff, First of all check the bottom pulley attatched to your crankshaft.
Does it appear to wobble from side-to-side? It sounds like you have a broken
keyway on your crankshaft. This accounts for the low compression readings
and dismal performance. It is likely a coincidence that you pressure washed
the car when you did. If you need help with a replacement crank or bottom
end please write or call me. Project 323 is the world wide owners group
for Mazda 323 enthusiasts. I have several used and 1 new bottom end around
as well as ECUs, turbos (new & used) and always have a huge supply
of parts on hand
- Q. Normal Exhaust Temp?
What should the normal exhaust gas temperature range be on the 1988 B6
DOHC engine as measured at the exhaust manifold?
Thanks, Eric Rehwald, Jasper, AB, Canada
A. Around 1300 F
I have a 323 Gtx and I saw your question about the exhaust gas temp. on
the turbo engine. I took out my catalytic convertor but I was seeing 1350
F on the interstate. Now I rarely get over 1300 but road race told me that
these are normal temp's. If you get up around 1600 something is wrong.
I try and let my car cool 1min~800 F, 2min~1000 F, 4in~>1200 F. Hope this
helps some. Mike at Road Race is the expert.
From: Clay McLendon
- Q. Stumble off idle
I have a question for visitors to this site. My GTX has a bad stumble just
off of idle. It is most noticeable when trying to hold a steady speed,
like on the highway. It only does it when it is warm. First thought was
throttle position sensor, but no trouble codes are indicated by the computer,
and everything checks out in terms of resistances. If I take the computer
out of closed loop by disconnecting the Oxygen sensor the problem goes
away. The sensor is a Bosch unit, and is sending a signal. Has anyone else
had a similar problem?
A. Problem Solved!
The problem was traced to a bad ground.
Here are some books that may interest you, that can be ordered online.
Books from amazon.com
A great little book, with plenty of photos, that covers the spectrum of
Mazda racing in the USA from about 1970 through 1991. Several cool pictures
of full-race 323 GTX in action.
Chilton Repair Manual
A basic manual that covers the full variety of maintenance and repair procedures.
I can't vouch for each of these folks, but here are some contacts if you are looking for parts to soup up
your 323 GTX. Please let me know of others.
that sell 323 GTX performance parts
- Advanced Jap Auto Imports
- Mobile 0421 025 216
(Listing added: September 28, 2005)
- Reich Racing Ltd
- Reich Racing Limited
261-525 Highland Road West
Canada N2M 5P4
Web site: www.ReichRacing.com
We have developed ECU upgrades and other performance parts for Mazda's 323 turbos, MX-6 GT, and the B6T
powered Mercury Capri XR2.
(Listing updated: January 3, 2005)
- DJT Motorsports
- My name is Darin Stocker, I run a small race shop called DJT Motorsports in Detroit.
I have 2 GTX's and have worked on many, both street and race. Currently I am building
a stroked 1.6 for a customer and am also rebuilding a transmission for another.
DJT Motorsports - Detroit
(Customer wrote to say they were happy with tranny, clutch, flywheel, axles, and computer work. - Reed S., Jan. 2003)
- Pete Waltz
- Pete is selling new old stock Koni struts and other GTX items
(Listed November 5, 2003)
- Road / Race Engineering
- 13022 La Dana Ct.
Santa Fe Springs, Ca. 90670
(562) 777-1522 phone
web site www.roadraceengineering.com
- Cork Sport
- 6705 NE 79th Ct, Suite 1
Portland, OR 97218
Web site www.corksport.com
- E . L . PROTOTYPES
- 410 S. Motor Ave. #C
Azusa, CA 91702
(626) 812-4358 phone
We have been doing 323 GTX and Familia ECU upgrades for about 5 years now and
we have assisted in many transplants of these motors into FWD only cars.
Eric Lapka, owner.
- Rod Millen Motorsport
- HKS USA
13401 S. Main Street
Los Angeles Ca. 90061
- Propulsion Motorworks
- Midori Machi 2-13-18
- Adelaide Jap Dismantlers
- Australian used parts supplier. Sometimes has GTX and GTR engines.
19 Jacobsen Crescent, Holden Hill SA 5088 AUSTRALIA
phone 61+ (8) 8369 1156
- Tri Point Engineering (Canoga Park, CA)
- Specialize in Mazda and BMW but have done mods on GTXs.
Tri Point Engineering
21417 Ingomar St # 7
Canoga Park, CA 91304
- Wholesale Hyperformance (Diamond Bar, CA)
We sell most major aftermarket performance brands for imports such as:
HKS, Blitz, Greddy, Gab, Koni, Tokico, Eibach, Intrax, Bilstein, KYB,
Magnacore, Nology, NGK, MSD, K&N, Mazdaspeed (auth. Dealer), PIAA,
Sparco, Momo, Razo, Volk, Racing Hart, SSR, RSR, Catz, OMORI, Autometer,
1174 Diamond Bar Blvd. Ste #231
Diamond Bar, CA. 91765